High on top of one of the massive rock formations in Meteora is the Varlaam Monastery. A narrow bridge allows us to walk across a deep gorge and climb the steep steps up to the monastery. The views are stunning, but even more amazing are the people who live there.
“If you would like, I could tell you a little bit about this place,” a monk tells us as we enter the church. “We would love to learn more! Tell me more about the significance of all the icons?” I respond.
“To answer, I need to begin with theology.” He points to the back wall. “Notice the direction of the church – the back wall faces west, the front of the church faces east towards the rise of the sun. The sun is the symbol of light, the symbol of Jesus. Without the sun, there would be no earth. Without Jesus, there is no life. To enter the church is turn away from the west and face the east. It is a deliberate turning away from darkness towards the light – towards the big event of meeting Jesus!”
Interesting! Our church in New Holland also faces east. What if every time I entered, it would be a deliberate action of turning away from darkness towards the big event of meeting the light of Jesus?
“Our church consists of three rooms,” he continues. “We are in the first room – the room of preparation – where we fight the battle of turning from darkness towards the light. It is the place where we resist the life of passions, evil and sin; the place we fight the old man; the place we pray and confess sins.”
“In this room of preparation are three levels of paintings (icons). On the first level, are the saints who have gone before, giving examples of how to follow Jesus in prayer, confession and asceticism. On the second level above them are icons of the martyrs of the first three centuries – the period of the idols. There are 12 icons at this level encircling the room – one for each month of the year.”
“Everything has purpose for us – even the music. Our music does not follow your musical scale. We have several different modes of music with each one having a specific purpose – one for prayer, one for confession, etc.”
“The ICONS also have a purpose – to give God a face. Muslims and Jews worship a God without a face. But through Jesus and the incarnation, God has a face.” His face becomes increasingly animated and excited. “Our God has a face! ICONS exist for one purpose only – to help us see God.”
“Notice there is no shadow or light in the icons. Where does light come from? The light comes from inside – the Holy Spirit dwelling within us! Notice the icons are not elaborate or realistic paintings, but simple images that direct us toward God.”
“There are no sculptures in our church, only simple icons. Sculptures are idols. We do not believe in idols. This was the cause of the East-West schism. We chose simple icons in place of elaborate sculptures and magnificent realistic paintings that attract attention to themselves.”
Very interesting! When I first saw them kissing the icons, it seemed like they were worshiping idols. But to them, the icons served the opposite purpose – not to distract them from God, but to see God’s face by remembering the many stories of God and his people and thus become part of God’s story today.
Two large pillars separate us from the next room. These are the pillars I viewed as an obstacle the night we attended the Orthodox church service. They prevented me from seeing the front center. But these two columns serve a different purpose – they represent the lives of Paul and Peter, who also help us see Jesus – the face of God.”
“We are the body of Christ. We need the whole body of Christ! We need all the spiritual gifts to see the face of God. We need to use our mouth, eyes, heart, smell, fingers and feet to worship and see God. These are all part of the body!”
We step into the second room. “This is the room of lighting – where we meet the light of Christ, where we have visions of light within the soul to understand the life of Jesus through the Holy Spirit. This is the place where we feel like a new-born – a new creation.”
At the top of this room is a dome. “The dome symbolizes the sky, the world. An icon of Jesus is at the center of the dome. Jesus is the one who holds everything together. Below Jesus on the dome are the prophets of the Old Testament – the ones who help us to see Jesus. Below them are the four evangelists – Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Below this are icons showing the story and life of Jesus – beginning with his birth on the right and concluding on the left with the coming of the Holy Spirit at Pentecost.”
“Notice that our churches only have domes. The churches of the west have pointed roofs – the shape of a triangle. At the top of the triangle is God – the creator, or the Pope. In the west, you use your mind and knowledge to find God. You use reason, logic, and knowledge to climb up the triangle or pyramid of faith to find the DNA of God.”
“In the eastern church, God is outside the pyramid. God comes to us in our heart – not through logic and reason. The dome replaces the pyramid – symbolizing God coming to us in our hearts.”
He continues to speak with great enthusiasm. “What is the breath and oxygen of the church? It is the Holy Spirit! Without the Holy Spirit, the church could not breathe. Without the Holy Spirit, the church is a circus or theatre. This is what the church is when God is known only through head, logic and reason.”
“What does the third room represent?” I ask.
“The third room represents full contact with God and the Holy Spirit. This is where we taste the kingdom of God. This is where we know God is real – not just an idea! Our faith becomes experience – an event! This is the holy of holies – intimacy with God!”
Wow! What a meaningful journey with God every time you enter the church. I had no idea all of this was happening when we stood for nearly two hours in their worship service. I had no idea that even the simple act of coming to church was an intentional act of turning away from darkness towards the light of Christ.
All I saw were people kissing icons. I had no idea this was the room of preparation, the place of fighting off darkness and evil, of prayer and confession, becoming clean before God. As I watched people move from the first room to the second, I had no idea it was an intentional moving into the light of Christ.
There are some obvious theological differences which make me uncomfortable, however I wonder if some of their intentionality and symbolism might bring a breath of fresh air and new life for us today – especially to those generations where church has lost meaning or dropped in priority. I marvel at their depth of theological meaning and yet simplicity of it all.
I’m not sure I want to begin kissing ICONS, but I do find their concrete ways of entering into the stories of God and seeing the face of God very powerful tools. Their use of the entire body in the act of worship – hands, ears, feet, eyes, smell, lips, fingers, and heart – creates a very rich worship experience! I now understand why there is no need for a front center! Front centers are everywhere pointing to the light of Christ surrounding you and the presence of the Holy Spirit within you.
I am impressed with this young man who received the call of God at age 19. To avoid the wrath of his parents, he told them he was going to a Greek island for a summer vacation. But instead he went to a monastery to explore God’s call.
Would I be willing to sacrifice all the priorities of this world for one purpose – to become like Christ? For seven years, he has chosen to live on the top of this rock with a daily routine that begins at 5 a.m. with 3 ½ hours of divine liturgy and prayer. I am impressed with how contented and happy he seemed to be and how enthusiastic he was about his faith and walk with Christ. He is a source of inspiration and encouragement to me as a brother in Christ living out God’s call in a unique way.
There is much more we talked about, but I must share yet the highlight that came at the end when he invited us inside for some coffee and sweets. He took us through private doors into the inner monastery, forbidden to tourists. “You are not a tourist”, he said. We sat around a warm fireplace that felt good on a cold, wet, windy day atop the rocks.
A moment later, he reentered. “I’m so sorry, but a visiting bishop needs to use this room.” As he ushers us out, an elderly bishop with three priests walk in. We go to another room that looks like a meeting room with a circle of comfortable chairs. As we eat two wonderful sweet treats, we learn that he is fasting during the 40 days of Lent. We learn more about his clothing and why he does not feel called to be an evangelist. When I ask him about the Great Commission, he answers, “I am not one of the apostles!” I could have debated, but I was here as guest and learner. Besides, we need persons of all calls and gifts.
“We need three things to be a follower of Jesus.” He says. “First, we need the dogma of the holy fathers –the right faith. Second, we need the mysteries of the church – baptism, communion, prayer – these are windows of the Holy Spirit. We cannot taste without mystery! Third, we need the ascetic life to fight evil and become clean before God!”
“Many follow Christ as slaves of Christ,” he continues. “Their relationship with God is based on fear and guilt. Others follow Christ as though they are shopping in a supermarket – buying the blessings of God. God is their bank. Their relationship with God is based on God giving them all his treasures and blessings. Finally, there are those who follow Christ as friends of God. Their relationship with God is based on love. Everything I have is a gift from God. Therefore, I want to offer it all back to God. There is nothing more that I can offer than my life.”
“One’s complete identity is found in God. A saint is crazy about God’s love. But love includes the cross. The cross is a scandal to logic. How do I love my enemies? Maybe for one day or one week, but no longer! It’s impossible to love in my mind. It is only possible through the inner dwelling of the Holy Spirit.”
Our time with our new friend and brother high atop the rock formation in Meterora continues to inspire me. I am inspired to find concrete tools that will help us see the face of God today using all of our bodies in our worship. I sense a renewed call to walk in the light of Christ, to resist evil and darkness, to surrender my life to follow Christ, and to rely more fully on the Holy Spirit. I thank God for this gift from God.
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