Saturday, March 3, 2012

A Warm Saturday in Athens

Took the metro to the train station to buy tickets to Meteora tomorrow. It is a five hour train ride each way. Travel days always seem to be an adventure because you are going somewhere you have never been before. We look forward to seeing Meteora although it is supposed to be cold and wet and possibly ice and snow. Not looking forward to that. Was considering cancelling going there, but our lodging was non-refundable. May be our two day winter retreat.

This morning, we walked through town to Ancient Agora. Saw many temples and images of many gods. Read Acts 17 several more times as we sat on benches under the shade of olive trees. Was quite warm today – in upper 60’s maybe low 70’s.

Saturdays are very different in Athens. The streets are full of people. Reminded me of New Holland Fair or some carnival. The sidewalks were lined with tables and people drinking and eating and socializing together all day – thousands of people for several blocks.

Wewalked to Syntagma Square to watch the changing of the guard. During the changing of the guard, one of the guards slipped and landed on his seat. Have it on video. Looked painful. Very interesting synchronous high-stepping routine that lasts about 5 minutes every hour. Then they let you take photos of you with one of the gurads.

Went to the national gardens beside the parliament building and the presidential palace. Walked by two busloads of police on the sidewalk fully equipped with riot gear – shields and all. Felt like something was about to happen, so we moved by rather quickly and walked back another way so we would not find ourselves in the middle of something.

Attended our first eastern orthodox church service. I need to do some research and learn more about these churches and their worship. So many things happened during this long church service that I could fill pages of our experience. For now, I will risk looking foolish and share some of our experience as complete novices.

We entered and the church just as the bells were ringing outside. The church was already fairly full. Everyone was standing. Was a little intimidating. There were no chairs – just lots of walls covered with paintings and icons, large square posts that obstructed the view also covered with icons, and a ceiling covered with paintings.

At first, the large pillars that blocked the view of the front were frustrating. Judy and I walked to the right and stood beside one of the posts to try to be out of the way. We had no idea we were blocking one of the icons that people greeted when they entered. As people entered, the first thing they did was make the sign of the cross and bow and then put their forehead against one of the icons or kiss one of the icons.

This is one thing we could see. What we could not see was the front or what was happening there because a large post covered with icons blocked our view. But eventually, we began to understand that there is no front center in this church. The front center is wherever the people are. The front center is the icon in front of you, the music you are listening to, the prayers that are being prayed. Church happens everywhere the people are.

Church happened as people touched their head or kissed the feet of Jesus on a large painting. Church happened as people lit candles. Church happened as we prayed. Church happened as the leader walked throughout the entire church and shook a cord of bells in front of each person as incense poured into the air surrounding you. No need to see a front center in this church. No need for benches to sit on – they would be an obstacle in this church. Church was everywhere people were. And people were standing everywhere.

But just as much as the people are everywhere, the leaders and the choir were hidden. The entire service was sung and led by one of the leaders or the choir and neither were visible most of the service. The choir was amazing – may have been only 4-6 people – sounded like professional madrigal singers singing classical music. Absolutely beautiful harmony!!! Recorded about 25 minutes of it. Enjoyed every minute!

Everyone stood the entire service – from beginning to end. We lasted 90 minutes and finally left because our feet and backs were aching from all the walking we did the last several days. During the 90 minutes, we did the sign of the cross and bowed hundreds of times. We joined in even though we did not understand any of the Greek language and prayers. All the women had their heads covered, so Judy quickly wrapped her scarf around her head. The service was still going strong when we left – seemed like it could last another half hour or so – a total of two hours of standing!

We thought often of our worship services back home. Quite different. Perhaps we have a few things to learn from other traditions.

Hope to share photos and perhaps more later. Will probably have five hours on the train tomorrow.

It is not 10 pm and we have to get up early tomorrow to catch the metro and then the train. So good night to all and have a blessed Sunday as you worship Jesus together!

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